Wednesday, April 15, 2009

47 km on the Juan de Fuca



Total cost of four day hike for 2 people: About $300 including...

$200 for new gear and food
$12 parking
$40 camping fees ($5 per person, per night)

Bears: No sightings, but did see scat at a few points along the trail

Day 1 - Trailhead at China Beach (km 0) to Bear Beach (km 8.7)

Our trip began with the 2+ hour long drive from Victoria to the Juan de Fuca trail head at China Beach on a cloudy and grey, Good Friday morning. Noticing the skies growing darker the closer we drew to Jordan River, we soon gave up hope the weather would make turn for the better. When Baasje and Mike returned to the trail head after depositing one of our vehicles at the far end, it was just past noon and we decided to delay lunch and hit the trail, anxious to get going before the rain hit. Gladly, the rain held off for most of the first leg of our journey, a series of relatively easy ascents and descents through vibrant green (despite the gloomy light of overcast skies) forest.

When we arrived at Bear Beach (km 8.7) in the mid-afternoon we briefly considered pressing on towards the next campground at Chin Beach (km 20.6). Had the weather been fairer, I expect we would have kept going.  As it was, we quickly came to the conclusion that none of us were keen on the possibility of setting up camp after after nightfall in the rain.  After taking a tour of the already crowded campground to scout out our options, we squeezed onto a campsite with an Australian who was hiking solo. Thankfully he was a good sport about sharing. After we'd pitched our tents and filled our bellies with dinner and smores for dessert (thanks, Mike!) we settled down to a fantastic night of good conversation and music around the campfire.


Day 2 - Campsite at Bear Beach (km 8.7) to Chin Beach (km 20.6)

Bear Beach to Chin Beach is the most physically demanding stretch of the Juan de Fuca trail. The section is comprised of continuous steep ascents and descents - a heart pounding grind with 50 lbs on your back, especially when the weather is wet. By mid-morning the steady rainfall had turned the path to series of slippery mud puddles deep enough to reach mid-shin in spots. It took us most of the day to travel the 11 km to Chin Beach, with only a few short breaks to grab quick bites to eat. With the ladders and bridges wet and slippery, keeping our feet required quite a bit of focus. The effort and hardship was not without it's rewards - the views were beautiful and the sense of accomplishment I felt at the end of the day is what hiking is all about. When we finally reached our destination we were able to grab  a good campsite beside the creek with a great view of Chin Beach (see pic above).  We quickly set about cooking and inhaling dinner before spending a few hours resting sore muscles and checking the damage from the spills we'd all taken on the trail.


Day 3 - Campsite at Chin Beach (km 20.6) to Little Kuitshe Campground (km 34)

The second day of the trip had been one of the most physically demanding hikes I'd ever encountered, and the third day turned out to be, by far, the most mentally challenging. Steady rain continued throughout the day and turned the trail into an endless, soupy puddle that eventually waterlogged my boots (that on previous trips had miraculously seemed impenetrable to water). Mud also began to seep beneath my gaiters, soaking my pants to the knee. As the day wore on, the condition of the trail began to deteriorate to the point where we were regularly coming across sections that were completely washed out, resulting in some treacherous detours. Once we'd worked past these rough spots it was sometimes difficult to determine where the trail picked up on the other side and we ended up having to backtrack of find our way a few times. As it can sometimes go at moments like these, the sites from the trail were breathtakingly beautiful - Sombrio Beach appeared gorgeous and moody in the grey mist and at one point we climbed high into the clouds during a particularly stunning interior section of the trail.

Day 4 - Little Kuitshe Campground (km 33) to Botanical Beach (km 47)

Thankfully the section of the trail from little Kuitshe Campground to Botanical Beach is the easiest leg of journey. If you're looking to experience the Juan de Fuca on a gentler scale, I would suggest taking on this portion of the trail. The path here is well maintained and many of the trouble spots have been smoothed over with boardwalks and wooden steps (some even with railings). Despite an uncomfortable night's sleep and sore legs we were able to cover the 14 km to Botanical Beach (the longest stretch of the trip) before mid afternoon. The shoreline on this section is very pretty and there are many interpretive signs along the way to enhance the experience.

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